Joanne Murray Interview
Joanne Murray has always worked in the hospitality industry and juggled that with bringing up her two children. This remarkable woman started out in the hotel business and - while it is hard to pick a favourite - her early training in British Transport Hotels was a fantastic grounding. Gleneagles Hotel was her first big job, followed by Inverlochy Castle and Cromlix House. Scotland offers not only spectacular scenery but, in Joanne's opinion, offers top hotel experiences as good as anywhere else in the world. Joanne's latest job is to manage one of Scotland's most famous and popular tea rooms.
The Willow Tea Rooms are much more than just a place to drink tea, it is a destination, welcoming around 12,000 visitors every month. With over 100 years of history attached to the Tea Rooms, it is a 'must see' for the many overseas visitors to Glasgow. It has proved particularly popular with visitors from Japan, USA and Europe. Willow Tea Rooms also try to use as much local produce as possible and focus on a variety of Scottish fish dishes. Willow Tea Rooms is a member of the Tea Guild (www.tea.co.uk/index.php?pgId=29) and is featured in the current AA & Tea Council guide 'AA Britain's Best Afternoon Tea'.
What is your most memorable childhood 'food' memory?
A real traditional Scottish dish is Cloutie Dumpling. I still remember my mum making it in a huge pot. The dumpling was tied up in a muslin cloth and after cooking she would unwrap it and let it dry out in front of the coal fire. My five brothers and sisters would queue up with me waiting for our mum to decide it was ready and tuck in to it before bedtime. We serve it in the Willow today and is a firm favourite of many visitors.
What's your favourite food or ingredient 'on your doorstep'?
Scotland thoroughly deserves its reputation as one of the top locations for fish. We serve a wonderful St Andrew's Platter which includes smoked trout, smoked salmon and prawns. We also serve an Arbroath Smokie, a haddock that is traditionally smoked and has a fantastic unique flavour.
What is your favourite food secret?
Our favourite sweet is undoubtedly our meringues that are based on the owner's personal recipe. The 'chewy' centres are to die for and just seeing them on a plate leads to a wave of orders to the kitchen. I think the biggest secret of baking our meringues is to take it slow and mix the ingredients with care.
What food would you travel for (within the UK)?
We are blessed in Britain with some of the best ingredients there are. We are at our best when we keep things simple. Venison is fantastic and done best in the Scottish Highlands. My other passion is fish and when cooked simply it is well worth a journey.
What is your favourite seasonal food?
We are becoming spoiled with produce now being sourced around the world. Our suppliers can now get you most things any time of year. There is, however, nothing to beat fresh local produce that retains that 'just picked' taste. A piping hot plate of vegetable soup takes a lot of beating and the longer winters in Scotland certainly give lots of opportunities to sit down and enjoy the range of flavours.
What is your favourite local food shop?
That's really hard. Glasgow has seen a real growth in local delicatessens and farmers markets in recent years. The wide range offered is wonderful and offers small producers a window to offer their produce. My current favourite is Kember and Jones in the West End of Glasgow. It has managed to not only capture the take-away deli experience, but also has tables to sit back and enjoy fantastic coffees and meat platters.
What is your favourite eating place?
Café Gondolfi is another Glasgow institution. It has been in the Merchant City area of Glasgow for more than twenty years and has the most unique furniture that is carved from wood. Again, it focuses on Scottish specialities. The building has recently been extended onto a new floor, offering a small bar and restaurant. It is a terrific intimate rendez-vous.
What is your favourite UK pub?
The Rogano in Glasgow City Centre is a real art deco treat - styled around the original Queen Mary liner that was built on the Clyde nearby. There is a permanent queue for the three booths on offer. While it does have a real destination restaurant on site, the bar is the big secret for locals.
What is your favourite dish or recipe?
A simply prepared monkfish served with a green salad does it for me every time.
Name an inspirational food person? Why?
Knowing how hard the food business is, I think that anyone who has the commitment and energy to make a success in this area deserves real credit. Anne Mulhern, who owns the Willow, started up over 20 years ago with 10 tables. Today there are two separate Willow Tea Rooms in Glasgow, each with two rooms able to collectively cater for 200 visitors. Anne has not only recreated the original rooms as they were 100 years ago, but has also managed to retain the original atmosphere of a bygone era.