Thousands of tiny raindrops prickle as they strike your face then slowly trickle downwards searching out weak spots in your weather protection. It’s October, but the temperature is surprisingly mild due to the Atlantic Gulf Stream’s warming influence. Wearing multiple layers under breathable waterproofs, you ready for anything the Scottish weather can throw at you. At the start of your hike visibility is around a thousand metres. An optimist would have packed sunglasses, but watching the weather forecast in my hotel room at Tobermory the previous night, I’d decided to pack light and added a foil survival blanket instead. In Scotland, the important thing to remember is that no matter how good or bad the weather is at any moment that it can change in an instant.
This is the Treshnish Peninsula walk, described by many of the walking guides to the Isle of Mull, as being one of the best on the island. It starts about two miles from Calgary beach where the bus from Tobermory terminates. Anyone travelling by car can park at an old quarry and save themselves about 4 miles walking. The way-marked walk is around 6 miles long, but adding the stretch from / to Calgary brings it up to 10 miles in all.
On our trek from the bus stop at Calgary Beach, Joelle and I searched for an ancient standing stone with cup and ring marks, mentioned in an old guide book, but we were unsuccessful in our quest. We gave up and made our way to the official starting point for the walk and forked off the metaled road along a stony track to the Eco Award winning Holiday Homes at Treshnish. The track continued for another mile and skirted Haun, another old crofters' settlement converted to environmentally friendly vacation accommodation. Then we came to a gate, the rain stopped and patches of blue sky appeared followed by the sun. The ocean turned from grey to a shimmering silver blue.
Instead of describing the rest of the hike I'll leave you with a photo gallery of photos taken that day. Click on images to view a larger version. Travel basics VisitScotland has a searchable database of accommodation. Prices start at around £26 per person per night for B&B. Most properties charge between £35 and £60 pppn including full Scottish Breakfast. Self Catering properties and camping sites can also be searched on VisitScotland's site. Mull can be reached via a sailing with Caledonian MacBrayne Ferries on the following routes: Oban - Craingnure, Kilchoan - Tobermory and Lochaline - Fishnish. The most important port connecting with Mull is Oban as it is served by Scotrail Trains and CityLine buses as well as the most direct road to Glasgow and Edinburgh. John Williams can often be found undertaking sustainable travel or snowboarding; usually while toting a compact camera. You can follow him at @Eurapart and find out more at about.me/JohnWilliams. See more articles by John on the VisitBritain SuperBlog.