48 hours in...Chester and Cheshire

Thursday 05 September 2019

With an enchanting mix of historic market towns, quaint village squares and picturesque landscapes, not to mention an impressive collection of stately homes and formal gardens, there are few places more quintessentially English than Cheshire. At the heart of the county is the compact Roman city of Chester; bewitching in its beauty and quietly making a name for itself as one of the UK’s most enriching short break destinations.

Chester

DAY 1

Time to check in

If you’re setting up base camp in Chester, there are few hotels as impressive as The Chester Grosvenor. Overlooking the famous Eastgate Clock, The Grosvenor has been welcoming guests for over 150 years and was bestowed the title of ‘World’s Best Classic Hotel’ at the Boutique Hotel Awards in 2017. Similarly impressive but with a much more idiosyncratic style is the achingly-cool Oddfellows Chester, an Instagrammer’s dream hotel. If you’re arriving on a late flight (or have an early departure) from Manchester Airport, its sister property, Oddfellows On The Park, is equally charming. Of course, with so much beautiful countryside, Cheshire itself isn’t short of country-piles-turned-hotels and standout options include Peckforton CastleThe MereMottram Hall and The Courthouse, in Knutsford.

10:00 Find your feet

Founded by the Romans in AD79, Chester has a long and fascinating history. Take a brisk morning stroll to discover the most complete City Walls in Britain, as well as Eastgate Clock, said to be the most photographed clock in England after Big Ben. Wander the banks of the River Dee before exploring the largest Roman Amphitheatre, Britain’s oldest racecourse and the city’s stunning Cathedral. There are plenty of great walking tours available, but for a tour with a difference, book a Chester Running Tour and whizz around the sites on 5k or 10k routes. Just make sure that you backtrack to Chester Cross for midday to see the Town Crier’s daily proclamation.

12:30 Have a sticky lunch

Take a 5-minute taxi ride or 30-minute walk to Hoole where you’ll find a quaint high street and a small restaurant with big ambitions. Sticky Walnut is the acclaimed neighbourhood restaurant from local restauranteur Gary Usher, offering delicious British cuisine and a great value 3-course lunch. It’s one of several restaurants across the north west that serial crowdfunder Usher has opened, drawing diners into small towns and suburbs such as Heswall in Merseyside where people flock to Burnt Truffle, Didsbury in Greater Manchester where he opened Hispi in 2016, and Prescott in Merseyside where Pinion opened in 2018. There’s also Wreckfish in Liverpool and Kala, due to open in Manchester in 2019.

14:00 A hit of heritage

Enjoy an afternoon of unique heritage attractions and experiences. Chester Castle features the 12th-century Agricola Tower, the first stone gateway to Chester Castle, which had been founded by William the Conqueror in 1070 in the south west part of the city. Open during the summer months, soak up views across the city from the tower and then head over to the Grosvenor Museum to discover more about Chester’s rich history and heritage

Heading out of town, The Lion Salt Works Museum is a restored historic open-pan salt making site where you can find out about the curious impact of salt on mid-Cheshire’s people, economy and landscape. Or for something completely different, try the ‘Amazing Women by Rail trail where you can explore the fascinating and often hidden histories of women who lived and worked in areas along the Mid-Cheshire and Calder Valley railway lines; from writers, artists and sportswomen to campaigners, suffragettes and politicians.

18:00 Enjoy independent eats

Chester’s bar and restaurant scene is booming at the moment, with independents at the heart of it. Book an early dinner at The Chef’s Table and let the small but passionate team look after you or indulge at Porta, a low-key, high-demand Spanish joint run by brothers Ben and Joe Wright.

Alternatively, make the a pilgrimage to Stockport to sample culinary storytelling via a blind-tasting menu put together by one of the UK’s most exciting young chefs, Sam Buckley, at Where the Light Gets In, although you’ll need to book well in advance.

19:30 Storytime

Finish your day at Storyhouse, a sprawling multi-arts centre incorporating a library, theatre and cinema that was formally opened in June 2018 by The Queen and The Duchess of Sussex. It’s one of the country’s most successful cultural buildings, having welcomed one million customers in its first year, while during the summer months look out for moonlight cinema screenings and open air theatre events in Grosvenor Park that are run by the Storyhouse team.

Storyhouse

DAY 2

10:30 Monkey around

Your second day needs to be all about exploring the tourism attractions of wider Cheshire and no visit to the county is complete without a visit to Chester Zoo. The UK’s most popular zoo with over 21,000 animals and 500 species, it’s been the subject of several high profile TV series including the BBC drama Our Zoo, which chronicled the inspiring story of founder George Mottershead and his family in the 1930s. Major recent developments at the zoo include ‘Islands’, which showcases the tropical environments of 6 South East Asian microclimates with immersive and interactive experiences throughout, plus a newly-expanded nature reserve, located on the zoo’s doorstep which is free to enter. A must-see event during winter is ‘The Lanterns, a light festival which turns the zoo into a magical festival wonderland featuring colourful, over-sized

Or

10:30 Get your geek on

For over 50 years, the giant Lovell Telescope at Jodrell Bank has been a familiar feature of the Cheshire landscape and an internationally-renowned landmark in the world of astronomy. It’s now firmly establishing itself as a tourism destination too after the UK government nominated it for UNESCO World Heritage status in early 2018. There’s the telescope itself but also several pavilions exploring our understanding of space, stars and planets. Taking afternoon tea at the onsite café with the telescope and rolling hills of Cheshire as a backdrop is perhaps one of the most unique and unusual experiences you can have in the country. And if you want to see Jodrell Bank at its best, visit during the annual Blue Dot which offers a boutique festival combining music, art and science.

Or

10:30 Explore a country estate

Tatton Park is perhaps the best known of Cheshire’s country estates and houses a neo-classical mansion, acres of landscape gardens, a huge deer park and a Tudor Old Hall. The park is also home to a rare breed farm, which has recently been reworked as the ‘Field to Fork’ story, explaining in honest terms where food comes from and bringing Cheshire’s farming history to life with costumed actors. Not one for vegetarians or vegans perhaps, but an essential education piece for children, it’s also possible to get hands-on with workshops and agricultural skills classes such as cheese-making and bee-keeping.

16:00 Brain freeze

Whichever activity you choose, a crucial stop on your way back to Chester has to be The Ice Cream Farm at Tattenhall. Primarily an adventure park for kids, it also features what is considered to be ‘World’s Largest Purpose Built Ice Cream Parlour’, housing all manner of award-winning ice cream flavours. If ice cream’s not your thing, in Chester make a beeline for The Cheese Shop which stocks over 200 varieties, including the iconic Cheshire cheese.

19:00 Secret stop off

Much of the hit show Peaky Blinders was shot on location in Cheshire, including Arley Hall which stands in as anti-hero Thomas Shelby’s country home. Mark this connection with a visit to hidden speakeasy Prohibition where you can enjoy cocktails and jazz music, then head off to Simon Radley at the Chester Grosvenor for an exquisite dinner that Mr Shelby would certainly approve of. Remarkably, the restaurant has held a Michelin start since 1990 and also has 4 AA Rosettes and an AA Notable Wine List Award.

Getting here

Northern Cheshire is easily accessible from Manchester Airport while Chester is a 45-minute drive from the airport. Train services run directly from London Euston station to Chester station and take around two hours.

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